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Media and advertising II: integration without separation

SHOW ME WHAT YOU WEAR AND I’LL TELL YOU WHO YOU ARE

It’s Christmas time and everything’s about purchasing gifts. No surprise that brands and media are taking advantage by using their commercial peak. Reading articles with branded ads is nothing new but especially around this time of the year, you barely find content that doesn’t revolve around shopping. 

Scrolling down Highsnobiety, a global fashion and media brand, I came across an article called ‘HERE’S WHAT YOUR HOLIDAY WISHLIST SAYS ABOUT YOU’. As a fashion consumer victim and a lover for personality-tests, I clicked on it immediately. The title promises to match my commercial needs to my persona. It attempts to link the psychological aspects behind my wishlist to it, instead of only listing products and indicates to help finding out more about myself and others.

I mean, who minds advertising if it helps….:

1with gift inspiration

2 understanding my personality 

3understanding who the person I’m buying gifts for is 

‘Browse them below and see which persona you (and those you’re buying gifts for) best align with.’

Source: Screenshots via Highsnobiety

BUY THIS IF YOU’RE…

Ready to get some gift ideas, I started reading the article and was already overloaded with brand names and pictures displayed all over the website. The webpage introduces me to six personas with different styles and characteristics. Some of the personas are advertisements for other brands such as ‘The Noma Stan’ which within the first sentence hyperlinks to the restaurant ‘Noma’. It further describes that people who visit the restaurant are unrivaled in their fashion game, implicating that only these people are a match for the listed products.

This is being done by native advertising as the brand integrates it as part of the article. Hardy describes it as advertising that blends into the environment, whether its editorial or other content with the goal of merging the initial brand message with informational content. Within each persona, you’re introduced to a short personality breakdown connected to recommended products. Following each persona, you’re then faced with multiple product pictures, information and a direct link to purchase the items from their own store. The audience is clearly shown how they will benefit from the product and therefore gains awareness.

Source: Screenshots via Highsnobiety

Highsnobiety is trying to convey that:

‘If the personality summary matches you, these products are the perfect match for you.’ 

By using this method of specific advertising, the brand aims to build brand awareness, generating positive brand associations to hike their sales.

What’s the issue?

The article isn’t promoting self expression. Rather it’s saying if you want to be part of this clique you need to buy these items. This can be compared to Custom Studios and Mini saying ‘Mini owners are all different. There’s no one person that Mini drivers look like.’ Trying to include as many different personas as possible, Highsnobiety does the exact opposite by putting labels on people. Additionally, it doesn’t cover a wide range of price segments, rather addressing people who are able and willing to spend more than £100+. Raising the misconception that one needs to spend a lot of money on gifts.

IS IT to discover my personality or to be advertised to?

The issue with highsnobiety articles is that it’s not only a media brand in the form of a magazine, but it’s also an online shop. It’s obvious that such a brand is trying to promote its own products through its article but how can we rely on the accuracy of what’s being published. 

On one hand, uniting journalistic knowledge and an editor’s curation in helping your audience choose the ideal gift this Christmas in an article may seem like just another act of service to your audience. However, through affiliate links, media channels can earn percentages on the purchase of their readers, setting up another source of income and indirect commercialisation of media content. Through these choices, it can be argued that there is a skewing of choice from what becomes more financially relevant to the news channel, rather than an editorial choice of what’s really more relevant. The separation between editorial and advertisements is blurred and makes it difficult to see the true intention behind the article. 

Categories
Working in the digital economy

SOCIAL MEDIA: HOW MUCH DO WE REALLY PAY FOR OUR ENTERTAINMENT?

Instagram and TikTok are the social media apps that I use the most. First it was only about watching random videos to distract myself but with time these apps turned out to be more than just for entertainment. From survival hacks, online-shopping and cooking techniques – I learned to explore these platforms through a new lens which made me use them more diversely than ever.

The sentence ‘Oh I saw it on TikTok’ is probably the sentence I heard most this year. Whenever I saw my friends try new hacks, go somewhere or buy something- the answer to where they got it from stayed the same. It got to a point where my friends started uploading videos of themselves trying out new restaurants and got sponsored by companies. Without realising, the idea of posting videos for fun turned out to be real business opportunities to generate income.

So I asked myself:

‘How much work do I really put in on these apps without actively noticing?’

A HIDDEN TRAP?

At my job in Social Media Marketing, I realised how much strategy goes behind every post is. Videos and images that were posted and didn’t seem like ads at first, in reality were only shared for marketing purposes. Even the name of the account doesn’t tell that it is a business account to make it more appealing for users – because you would rather follow a site that doesn’t look like it wants to sell you things, right? Looking like an entertainment platform from the outside, it really covered a huge company which used the account for advertising purposes. That made me question my personal usage of Instagram and TikTok and how free they really are at the end of the day.

Scrolling through my apps, I realise that most of the content I watch, no matter what it’s related to, includes advertising to some extent. There’s more obvious ads from Influencers and brands that promote items, but even my friends advertise restaurants by posting their food or their local gym by tagging it without the ulterior motive that they’re promoting these companies for free. What’s being produced is user-generated content. Freedman states that type of created content as dual as it’s not only of cooperative nature in its form but also cheaper for the companies. My own archive is full of free advertising from branded products, restaurant recommendations or outfit pictures – Of course all of these brands and places are visibly tagged to raise the chances of brand recognition and acknowledgement. 

Source: @claraancila via Instagram
Source: @oezgecelk via Instagram
‘Free’ advertising of friends on Instagram

WHO DOES REALLY BENEFIT?

The more we engage with a platform, the more likely we are doing something very cost-effective for those platforms. We often see it as a win-win situation, but who does really benefit from it at the end of the day? My friends who got sponsored for their content by brands,  turned their fun activity into a job with the hope of making a name for themselves in the online economy. Erin Duffy calls this ‘aspirational labour’. We use social media, like and generate content, but we’re doing it for free. Cohen talks about a ‘double process of commodification’ that is taking place on social media as we are the product that is sold to advertisers. However we also give the platform its value by sharing our data, creating and posting content.

ARE WE WORKING FOR FREE WITHOUT KNOWING?

Every time we are on social platforms we come across advertisements, whether it’s content from implicit ads through friends or explicit sponsored ads through brands. Even if we don’t promote our work on social media, we’re still providing free digital labour because we’re creating value as Tiziana Terranova argues with her concept of network culture. We have the power to work as commodities, especially Instagram and brands profit from our usage and data to target advertising on our platforms more effectively. What seems free at our end, in reality is more controversial in terms of economic value. 

Categories
Media and advertising I: algorithms and racialized capitalism

RACIAL BIAS ON INSTAGRAM: AM I OR THE ALGORITHM TO BLAME?

Scrolling through my Instagram, I think I come across a variety of content on my feed. I am presented with an overload of stimuli, from political activism posts to interior inspiration. What comes across as random and diverse in the beginning, upon closer inspection it’s a strategic method to keep me on the app. 

There’s been several discussions about Social media app algorithms being bias, but I personally never felt addressed by that until recent developments.

IRAN PROTESTS AS AN EXAMPLE

As an Iranian myself, I am invested and engaged in the current revolution happening in Iran. The nationwide protests in Iran, commenced in September with the death of Mahsa Jina Amini, tortured by the Iranian Morality Police for wearing her hijab improper, has had global impacts and led to ongoing protests. Instagram especially has become a tool of defence and a weapon of protest against the Islamic Republic regime. Iranians use the app to gain a voice and get the worlds attention to their need of victory and freedom. A worldwide movement has started where people take part by sharing, informing and discussing about the issues that women in the Islamic Republic face. Hashtags such as #mahsaamini and #iranprotests have reached millions of people. 

Source: Screenshot via Instagram
Source: Screenshot via Instagram

As protests grow, the Iranian government censors access to Social media channels to prevent documentation of brutality happening in the country being shared with the outside world. This reaction by the government triggered bigger public debates from people outside of Iran speaking up for Iranian women. Thousands of new Instagram accounts emerged, sharing videos which can’t be publicly shared by the people affected and living in the Islamic Republic. An abundance of Instagram posts are spread by celebrities, newspapers and activists speaking up against the regime.  

IS INSTAGRAM TAKING SIDES?

Apparently, accounts trying to raise awareness and drawing attention to the oppression faced are being blocked by Instagram. Activists claim that their profiles have been banned from the app after sharing information regarding the antigovernment movement. British-Iranian actress and human rights activist Nazanin Boniadi, directly confronted Instagram for using algorithms to block content and people via Twitter saying:

‘Fix your algorithms. This is outrageous.’

Other celebrities who have been publicly engaged regarding the Iran revolution have been demonetised on the platform. There are many examples showing that Instagram has been taking sides by blocking content, removing videos and limiting features within the app for addressing political issues.

Source: @1500tasvir via Twitter
Source: Golsa Golestaneh via Forbes

SHADOWBANNING IS REAL

I remember watching the Instagram stories of German-Iranian comedian Enissa Amani, who is constantly standing up for the Iranian community. Her posts are often informative and educational. One day, her content wouldn’t appear in my feed anymore. I actively searched her name and saw, she addressed that happening to other followers as well. Instagram has been facing criticism for its bias against users posting content that doesn’t align with certain values, be it political, sexual issues or even harmless content that doesn’t breach their community guidelines. 

Source: Enissa Amani via Instagram
Source: Enissa Amani via Instagram

As Rauchberg states, the usage of algorithms on platforms also deletes content of certain groups of people. Social networks suppress the visibility of those people, making it difficult for specific users to be heard. Instagram instead decides to amplify non-controversial topics, causing a mass of bias-driven content. Shadowbanning blocks certain content posted on the platform allowing users to be unaware of such things happening. In Enissas case it was her followers that drew attention to the fact that they couldn’t see her content anymore. Realising that Enissas content wasn’t appearing for me, I wondered what other content was not shown to me in order to limit the visibility regarding certain topics.

‘As long as the algorithm becomes more tailored, the public will be given the illusion of progress.’  Ruha Benjamin

Benjamin claims that advertising only seems to link to our interests, but the practice of shadowbanning by the apps themselves shows that the increase in personalisation is a facade.

Categories
Media, ideology & hegemony

SAVAGE X FENTY: WHY IT MATTERS

LINGERIE BRANDS HAVE BEEN LYING TO US

What’s the first image you have on your mind when thinking of lingerie brand models? The majority thinks of the same picture triggered by similar beauty ideals, tied to common norms deeply anchored in society, embodying a certain body type with features far from reality.

Rihanna came, Rihanna saw, Rihanna conquered

The fact that there is more than one body type has now also been recognised by a few lingerie brands which have made it their mission to change existing social beauty standards and focus on inclusivity.

In 2018, Rihanna founded her lingerie brand ‘Savage x Fenty’. The brand promises fearlessness, confidence and inclusivity. But Rihanna wouldn’t be Rihanna if her brand didn’t set her apart from competitors. Savage is all about ‘body positivity’ and ‘diversity’.

LET’S TAKE A CLOSER LOOK

Savage x Fenty Sport 2022 ad campaign

Savage x Fenty Sport is the newest addition. Her recent campaign spot is about women in sports. The 30 seconds highlight women of different body types, skin colours and sizes and show that there are no boundaries as far as sports for women go. Women in sports are often labeled and pigeonholed by society, assuming they are the more delicate and weaker beings. The commercial pushes back against these stereotypes and moves away from the conventional image that women have to follow certain rules.

SAVAGE STRATEGY: Why it works

Banet-Weiser focuses on the topic of feminism in the modern era, investigating how feminism is portrayed via the media that circulates around us. Through a short advertisement emphasising how powerful women are, Savage x Fenty Sport showcases all types of beauty. Rihanna frees the ordinary woman from the industrial and commercial idea of having to strive for a certain ideal. The brand shows that the problem lies in people’s fantasies about women in sports. 

The inclusion of a diverse range of women completely goes against the traditional beauty ideals of predominantly white, affluent girls and women. Instead a light is shone onto a mixture of people, resulting in a diverse, socially-aware and widely admired brand that is corporate friendly. Often, the idea that the only reason for wearing underwear is to please men, forgetting that most important is the satisfaction and self-confidence of oneself. Through the authentic choices of models, Rihanna aims to encourage others to feel beautiful and most importantly confident within their own bodies.

source: refinery29
source: refinery29
source: refinery29

MARKETING à LA RIRI

How does Rihanna succeed in fixing the fractures in the lingerie industry? The singer’s brand follows a special marketing concept within the neoliberal brand culture that stands out from the competition. Her seasonal fashion show along with her campaigns address societal women’s issues, reverse them and take advantage by using them as their key selling point. Thus, she manages to make feminist expressions and politics brandable by criticising beauty standards and connecting them to corporate capitalism. She achieves a lot of visibility for her brand, especially because her status as a celebrity makes it easier to establish the brand values.

Banet-Weiser argues that celebrity and corporate feminism often come from capitalist thinking and are therefore more business oriented. However the fact is, Rihannas brand has not been successful because she used inclusivity as a seasonal trend. Rather she built her whole brand around it and uses it as her business model gaining international popularity. People get beauty ideals passed down to them, primarily through the media. How women perceive their own bodies is clearly related to what is portrayed as ‘attractive’ in the media. That’s why it’s important that fashion campaigns address and embody the theme of ‘self-love’ and ‘body positivity’.

Savage x Fenty Show Vol. 2 Trailer

Her campaigns represent those who aren’t usually highlighted in fashion ads. The Savage x Fenty fashion show is anything but a conventional runway show. The models become ‘pieces of art’. A judgemental free space is created that gives viewers the opportunity to identify and feel like they belong. With her brand, Rihanna is influencing the body positivity movement and changing the existing rules set by other lingerie brands. She elevates the conventional norms and reinvents their concept in a way that will translate to millions of people worldwide. 

Categories
The digital economy

UNWRAPPING ‘SPOTIFY WRAPPED’

It’s this time of the year again: Spotify Wrapped is here! 

In 2016, the viral marketing campaign ‘Spotify Wrapped’ was first launched. Each December, Spotify offers a personalised list generated by the individual data of activities on the platform. ‘Wrapped’ provides an annual summary and allows users to see which artists, genres and songs they have streamed the most this year. The campaign aims to encourage people to share their rankings across various social media channels and let others be a part of their experiences.

Millions of people post their ‘Wrapped’ via social media each year and eagerly await December to see their individual lists. Yesterday I was scrolling through my Instagram and every story was a share of personalised playlist.

Source: newsroom.spotify

But WHY does the campaign WORK so well? 

Here are 5 reasons why:

1 It connects. ‘Wrapped’ offers the possibility to give others and yourself an insight into what kind of music you listened to throughout the year. It enables discussions and gives room to create deeper connections through music.

2It motivates. Are you one of the 1% of Artist x’s top listeners? Spotify manages to arouse curiosity, stimulates users to find out if they really are super fans and encourages them to use the platform more.

3It entertains. First, the data is used for gamification and provides a fun experience. Second, especially on platforms like Instagram, it is refreshing to see peoples playlists rather than their food or random people. 

4It creates a sense of achievement. Spotify gives the opportunity to get the attention of our favourite artists by showing our dedication for their music.

5 It creates emotions. Music is connected to emotions and reflects different moods and memories. ‘Wrapped’ manages to transport us back to certain moments and review our year. It’s like a digital archive.

Source: newsroom.spotify

We’re doing the work and Spotify profits?

Spotify, as a product platform, profits through its own user base advertising, creating a buzz that triggers a worldwide hype. As digital optimists like Freedman argue, social media have transformed our societies and the options consumers have. They have more power than ever and their control will continue to grow through the possibilities of collaborating and exchanging. User generated content is not a new method used by brands to get users to become part of their advertising campaigns.

Smicek states that modern capitalism focuses on using data as a crucial resource. Especially in terms of marketing, Spotify is not only running on data but has found a way to use the raw material data effectively by creating ‘Wrapped’. That is especially useful when it comes to securing a major advantage by fencing out other competitors in the industry. Apple music for example started their own version of ‘Wrapped’ three years later, trying to imitate the success that Spotify found. However, Apple’s attempt to surpass ‘Wrapped’ turned out to be not as notorious as its competitor. From hashtags to contests- brands are becoming more and more creative.

Spotify is particularly clever, because what doesn’t seem like advertising at first glance is arguably the most influential advertising method.

Spotify manages to create a genuine cultural moment that motivates people around the world to share their music. The design and the functions of ‘Wrapped’ are made to shape communication.  Customers are becoming active parts of the campaign and play an integral role. Spotify managed to break down barriers and uses their campaign as a marketing tool that motivates consumers to keep their subscription, directly linking the consumers to its platform and vice versa.

The campaign supports Leadbetter’s idea of a ‘We-Think’ revolution, where a new culture of participating and sharing is happening through social media. The consumer is becoming a ‘prosumer’ by promoting the app through producing the ‘Wrapped’ by using and sharing it. It helps people to connect with each other through shared opinions and activities.

Whether through social media or in real life:

‘Spotify Wrapped’ is on everyone’s mind in December.